Bali - The Colour and Vibrancy of Galungan

Posted 1 Nov 2017

Today is Galungan in Bali - a time for welcoming ancestral spirits home.  It is part of a ten-day celebration symbolizing the victory of good (dharma) over evil (adharma), during which Balinese Hindus honour their creator and their ancestors.

Galungan occurs once in the 210-day Balinese calendar. During this time, the island is ablaze with colour as the Balinese make elaborate offerings and perform rituals to entertain the returning spirits.

The house compounds that form the nucleus of Balinese society come alive, with families offering food and flowers to the ancestral spirits to express their gratitude and to seek protection.

The whole island sprouts tall bamboo poles (penjors), which are usually decorated with fruit, coconut leaves and flowers, and are set up at the entrance to every house. And, yes, we have one outside our house! 

At each gate, you'll also find small bamboo altars erected especially for the celebration, each one bearing woven palm-leaf offerings. 

Preparations for Galungan begin well beforehand. Penyekeban, meaning the day to cover up, occurs three days before the actual Galungan day. This is the day when green bananas are covered up in huge clay pots to speed their ripening.

Penyajahan occurs two days before the Galungan day and marks a time of introspection for Balinese. Colourful Balinese cakes known as jaja are made from fried rice dough. These are used in offerings and eaten during the 10-day Galungan time. This time of the year you see piles of jaja in every village market.

The day before Galungan is Penampahan, or slaughter day. The Balinese kill sacrificial pigs and chickens for uses such as temple altar offerings. 

Today, streams of Balinese devotees can be seen bringing elaborate offerings to their temples, where they will pray.

Tomorrow, the Balinese visit their extended family and closest friends. 

In ten days Kuningan will mark the end of Galungan. This is the day the Balinese believe the spirits ascend back to heaven. 

On this day, you will see special offerings of yellow rice, and for sure, if you live in a village in Bali, you will be given yellow rice by your neighbour.

If you are visiting Bali be sure to look for the giant banners or boards outside your local temple.  You may chance on a temple odalan  (temple birthday).  You can check for daily events, like the day of Ngelawang. 

Ngelawang is an exorcism dance performed by a barong, a mythical beast representing the divine protector.

The barong is invited into houses as he makes his way through the village. His presence is meant to restore the balance of good and evil in a house. The residents of the house will pray before the dancing barong, who will then give them a piece of his fur as a keepsake. 

After the barong pays a visit, it is important to make an offering of a canang sari (a flower offering) containing money.

If you are lucky enough to live in Bali, and you take part in village life, then an offer will be extended to you to join your Balinese family at the temple. As my good friend Ketut says, “Madam, we like it when we see you at the temple. When you enter our temple it shows us you have respect for our gods”.

Tourists in Bali during this celebration are very fortunate to capture this truly unique and vibrant expression of Balinese culture.

During Galungan there is an abundance of traditional Balinese food, like lawar (a spicy pork and coconut sauce dish) and satay. If you love trying local food, some local restaurants will feature a larger array of Balinese specialities. Make sure you try some. 

The beautiful penjors lining every road, lane and tiny street sway in the wind, a continual reminder of this grand welcoming home of the ancestral spirits. 

Enjoy Bali and Happy Galungan and plan a trip to Bali in 210 days time when the next one will roll around.

Stephanie Brookes

Author and Travel Writer

www.travelwriter.ws

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Posted 1 Nov 2017