Riding the Iron Dragon Around Java.

There’s something inherently romantic about train travel and, even now, when we can cross continents in hours by commercial aircraft, there is nothing quite like the leisurely pace of covering the same distance by rail.

On the Island of Java in Indonesia, trains are one of the most comfortable, fastest and easiest ways to crisscross this part of the archipelago. In the east, the railway service connects with the ferry to Bali, and in the west with the ferry to Sumatra. The rail network runs in the south from Bandarlampung to Lubuklinggau, and in the north from Medan to Tanjung Balai and Rantau Prapat.

This is undoubtedly one of the world’s most, charming rail journeys.

The carriages themselves are sparkling clean, air-conditioned and extremely comfortable with seats that recline allowing passengers to either grab a nap or watch movies or simply watch the ever-changing scenery pass by.

Due to the undulating terrain, the locomotives travel at what can only be called a ‘sedate’ speed along a single track that snakes through terraced rice fields which seem to tumble down steep hillsides and then winds around several dormant volcanoes. Speeds increase once the track hits the plains where vast expanses of verdant green rice paddies stretch to the horizon tended to by farmers toiling in the heat wearing their conical hats.

The island of Java is home to almost seventy million souls, making it one of the most densely populated rural regions on the earth. Small towns and villages have, over the last century sprung up along the train tracks lured there for the purposes of transporting their harvests of coffee, rice, tobacco and a vast variety of fruits and vegetable to market.

Indonesia’s Archipelago sits atop the famed ‘ring of fire’ and seismic activity never seems to be that far away for it has always been so since Java man inhabited this island some 10,000 years ago. A few miles out from Jogjakarta the line meanders past Mount Merapi smouldering like a sulky child and, every few years it has a titanic tantrum. Some have been fairly violent in recent years especially the eruptions in 2006, 2010 and 2013.

In Merapi’s shadow are two of the world’s most remarkable religious monuments — the 9th-century magnificent temple of Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist monument, and a mere forty kilometres away, the imposing

Hindu temples at Prambanan, a sprawling complex that for centuries surpassed even the largest temples in India.

Merapi’s periodic eruptions and accompanying earthquakes have vented their fury on these two world heritage listed sites, almost destroying Borobudur and burying it in volcanic ash. The Prambanan temples were not spared either when those self-same earthquakes rattled the structure to its core bringing down several outlying temples in 2006.

In the 10th century these incredible edifices were abandoned, perhaps succumbing to Merapi’s power, and, within a few short years, they were swallowed whole by the surrounding jungle. They remained hidden until the 18th century when Governor Raffle’s engineers - discovered ‘them brought them back to life’.

Yogyakarta has been a Muslim sultanate since the 16th Century but still retains so many symbols of much older imported religions making this vibrant city the cosmopolitan centre of West Java. It has become a guardian of sorts of syncretic Javanese culture encompassing, music, dance and the evolution of a thriving batik textile industry. In many ways, it is also a bastion against the Islamic orthodoxies that have filtered down from the regions of the Middle East.

An excellent side trip to do out of Jogjakarta is to head to the city of Magelang in Central Java (a two-hour drive). Just outside of the city is the village of Losari and the splendid resort of Mesa Stila a former Dutch coffee plantation converted to a luxury hideaway by renowned Italian developer Gabriella Teggia who transformed the property into what it is today. In my humble opinion, this is one of the finest resorts in Indonesia with 22 hectares of rolling gardens containing twenty- two luxurious ‘Joglos’ as well as a Turkish Spa that could almost have been transported from Istanbul. Set in a tranquil valley surrounded by no fewer than eight dormant volcanoes and a thriving coffee plantation a two-night stay here is food for the soul.

Returning to Jogjakarta is easy as one can catch the midday train to Surabaya in East Java. The train makes its way towards the Javanese highlands, passing through the altogether charming and somewhat sleepy city of Solo, (If time permits Solo is well worth a stop) before arriving in the wooded city of Malang. Here, at altitude, the air is crisp and cool after the heat of the plains.

The trick of traversing Java by rail is to break one’s journey each night and stay at any one of a number of Dutch Heritage hotels. Many of these wonderful hostelries have been lovingly restored to their former glory and are the perfect accompaniment to the romance of rail travel. The Tugu Hotel in the centre of Malang is a classic example where the rambling two-storied structure is a virtual museum, filled to the brim with artefacts and precious artworks dating back to the early period of Dutch occupation.

Several times a year the central square is closed off to traffic and hundreds of locals and tourists alike gather under the trees to witness the wonders “Wayan Kulit” puppetry. These shadow puppets, operated by just one puppeteer performs elaborate and epic tales and myths from ancient Javanese culture. Beware though, many of these performances can, and often do, last all night!

A two-night stay here is highly recommended before once again boarding the Java Express for the leisurely six-hour journey across the central plains to the city of Surabaya.

Here is a sprawling metropolis of over three million people and has always been (after Jakarta) the beating heart of commerce on the island. A deep water port plays host to fleets of inter-island sailing boats as well as a constant stream of container ships arriving and departing with holds full of cargo. Is easy to see why Java has, for 2,000 years played key roles in the globalization of commerce.

Surabaya played an integral part in the independence movement at the end of World War 11 with a famous battle fought out within the grounds of the Mujahapit Hotel and it is where the weary traveller should head. This historic Dutch Heritage hotel with its unusual art deco port cohere, built after the original façade was destroyed in the battle. This hotel is sprawling elegance at its best and once inside the noise of the city traffic is seemingly replaced by the soothing sound of birdsong.

It is possible to head south by rail to the port town of Banguwangi and take a ferry to the island of Bali but most rail travellers tend to complete their journey here as the international and domestic air services are efficient and frequent.

And so one of the great railway journeys is complete and you have braved the threat of the earthquakes and eruptions, while Java rail has taken you on a tour of sensational world history. Its an experience to savour.

Paul v Walters is the author of several best selling novels and when he is not cocooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali he scribbles for several international travel and vox pop journals.