Oh To Be A Dubliner. Ireland’s Magical Capital.

Dublin, that most endearing of cities has had a bit of a tumultuous ride in the last fifteen years or so. Before that nasty GFC brought everything tumbling down and burst its bubble, it was hailed globally as the Celtic Tiger. Bentleys and Rolls Royce’s plied its streets with haughty arrogance until the resulting financial shock brought everything to a halt and the cranes that festooned the skyline above myriads of construction sites suddenly fell idle.

However, just a mere decade on, a walk around the streets of Dublin today, even the casual observer will notice that the signs of economic recovery are springing up like daffodils in early spring, negating the gloom of those dark years. Somehow, the city seems to have shrugged off its the mountain of debt and, like a phoenix rising from the ashes now welcomes visitors to perhaps a less ostentatious destination than what it once was.

These days an innovative and hugely popular, bike share program has replaced the ostentatious Mercedes and BMW’s that used to ply these streets. Pop up breweries selling locally crafted beers, replacing the champagne that was quaffed during the heady days when money was no object. Scores of new and innovative restaurants have returned to their roots offering world-class cuisine using genuine Irish ingredients.

These new eateries sit comfortably cheek by delicious jowl alongside the centuries-old pubs that have given this delightful city the character it richly deserves. The city now puffs up with pride, showing off its magnificent Georgian architecture all watched over by the stately Trinity College that, over hundreds of years has witnessed good times bad but somehow it made sure that the city has retained its magnificent sense of history.

Ireland and, in particular, Dublin has had a tempestuous past, to put it mildly, yet its citizens seem to wear its somewhat checkered history like a light raincoat to ward off the drizzle. And why wouldn’t they? For, those fortunate to live here, they are surrounded by beautiful Georgian architecture a thriving and pulsating pub culture, and some of the best museums in Europe. Coupled with that, Dubliners have a somewhat delicious way with words, coupled with a wicked sense of humour and, if that wasn’t enough, the city is actually a seaside location.

Nobody really comes to Dublin for the weather as it is notoriously changeable, with May, June and September the sunniest while July and August, the Irish ‘high summer’ is often washed out with incessant rain. Winter is actually a wonderful time to visit when escaping the drizzle (or as the Irish like to refer to it, “soft rain” ) by ducking into a cosy pub which gives the city its charm.

The National Museum of Ireland on Kildare Street is certainly worth a visit as admission is free and, once inside you will discover a sense of the rich history of Ireland.

Bronze Age artefacts, gold jewellery, many of which were discovered when farmers were tilling their fields, along with relics of the Viking era are displayed; perfectly preserved swords and shields and medieval farming tools on show in the Palladian building that dates back to 1890.

For the less squeamish its worth having a peek at the “bog people” — preserved corpses of men who were killed and tossed into peat bogs during the Iron Age. Those self-same bogs ensured that the bodies were perfectly preserved.

Christ Church Cathedral is a must for the first time visitor is a must see. Dating back to 1030, it was here William of Orange came to worship after he ensured the Protestant ascendancy at the Battle of the Boyne; For the fit and adventurous climb up to the belfry and you will be rewarded with a splendid view of the entire city.

In 2009 Dublin, following the likes of some European cities introduced a bike share program which has been a roaring success. To participate simply grab a bike from any one of the numerous cycle stations positioned around the city and you are on your way. A five 5 Euro charge will give you a bike for three days. It’s a wonderful way to see explore the city and a chance to pedal along the banks of the Liffey River which meanders through the heart of Dublin.

When in Dublin it is customary to have at least one pint of its most famous export, Guinness. Probably the best place to do this is to take a tour of the famous Guinness Storehouse Museum. Situated on the cobbled street where the original St James’s Gate Brewery used to be the building is as imposing as the brand itself. A tour will give visitors opportunity to see how the famous stout is manufactured surrounded by posters and various advertising material from bygone eras such as the perennial Toucan under which is the age-old slogan which claims that, “Guinness is Good For You”

The Gravity Bar within the museum is where skilled ‘pourers’ will pull you a pint of the ‘black stuff and, while you sip away and adjust to the taste you can gaze out over the city through the massive plate glass windows.

The language of the Irish is Gaelic although one seldom hears it spoken it is still visible on several signs around the city. Dublin Bus services display the destination in both English and ‘Irish’. The same applies to public lavatories where signs display ‘Fir’ for men and ‘Mna’ for women.

Dublin has produced a plethora of wonderful writers such as James Joyce, Oscar Wilde and Jonathan Swift to name just a few. Likewise, musicians abound who have influenced global music for centuries with the likes of latter-day bards being Van Morrison, The Coors and U2.

Visiting Dublin is a little like visiting an old friend who will always make you welcome in their home and once you sit down they will immediately pour you a pint of the good ‘black stuff’

Paul v Walters is the best selling author of several novels and when not cocooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali, he occasionally rises to scribble for several international and vox pop journals.